To Know a Territory, You Must Eat It

Italo Calvino, Italian journalist and writer of short stories, hit the nail on the head with this observation. Until you have eaten foods of the various regions of Italy, you might think that Italian food is all the same. The truth is that for many years, what we now call Italy was the foothold for several warring city-states. Each of these former regions has their own distinctive cultures and cuisines. Today, you’d be hard pressed to find a Venetian dish in Florence and vice versa.

Local foods tell stories. Tuscan bread with its thick crust and notable absence of salt, for example, contains a small slice of Italian history. Legend has it that once upon a time, the republic of Pisa imposed a salt tax on its citizens. In response to the unpopular tax, the community began to bake its bread without salt—a practice that continues today.

In Tuscany, leftovers are often recycled, a practice from the lean days of World War II, when food was scarce even if you had your own garden. Ingredients from yesterday’s meals make their way into today’s menu. Fresh bread from breakfast is used to thicken the pappa al pomodoro or panzanella for lunch.

US regional tastes are varied and local to the extreme. North Carolina BBQ splits along geographical lines into Eastern and Piedmont traditions. From Hawaii’s love affair with spam to Texas chili to New Orleans po-boys up to Rhode Island’s clam “stuffies” the dishes are as unique and diverse as the country itself.

What, in your experience, are some of New England’s most prized specialties? Do you have a food story to share that sheds light on New England history? Please, be our guest. Pictures and recipes are more than welcome.

Lisa Leslie Henderson